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Kaum jemand schafft es wie Helmut und Cornelius Dönnhoff in dieser Vielfalt und auch variantenreichem Terroir solch eine homogene Kollektion trockener und restsüßer Weine zu keltern.
Terry Theise: In essence the BRÜCKE is a minerally wine; it shows a more masculine profile, it’s more fibrous and nutty than many other Nahe wines, but just at the moment you think you’re tasting everything in it, it comes at you with even more nuance, yet another facet of flavor. If new-world-oaky-creamslut wines are like basic addition and subtraction, these wines are like integral calculus—except that any ragamuffin palate (even mine!) can grok them.
The 2012 Spätlese has its wisdom-smell. It’s learned at last how not to waste time, and having learned, can release a deep kindness that isn’t charming. The wine makes no apparent effort. It relaxes and issues a numinous pulse of solid beauty. This may not delight in its first several years, but give it the 12-15 years it needs, and then open the windows, look out at the moon, observe the inexplicable longing the wine seems to bring, or to want you to feel, and be glad: you are alive, there are people who love you, and still there’s a sense that it isn’t enough. Because it can’t be, it isn’t supposed to be. You are designed to hunger and to grieve and to yearn, and also to be amazed and connected and grateful. Who’d have thought, the reminder of what it’s all for, living in a tiny sip of wine?